A dog’s teeth need the same care as a human’s. Therefore, it’s important that you take care of his teeth as you would your own. The best way to do this, of course, is to brush them, which should be done at least twice a week. There are special tooth brushes designed to fit in a dog’s mouth as well as special chicken flavored tooth paste to make the task easier. But sometimes, brushing your dog’s teeth can be a real hassle. For instance, there are some dogs that will flee at the sight of a toothbrush and it is very had to coax a seventy pound Rottweiler from under the bed.

So, how can you get Bruno the Rottweiler to care for his teeth? Here are several alternatives to toothbrushing.

Dog Food

Dog food is a major cause of tooth decay. Believe it or not, canned dog food, though it tastes real good, is not good for Bruno’s teeth. Therefore, you should not feed it to him all the time; once in awhile, as a treat, or on a special occasion is fine. Instead, Bruno should eat a good quality hard dry dog food. This will keep his teeth and gums exercised, as well as cleaned.

Bones

Of course, Bruno needs more than just dry dog food to keep his teeth white and his gums healthy. Chewing on things, such as sticks, the furniture and golf balls, though it is good exercise for his gums, is not very healthy, especially if he were to swallow the wrong thing. Or, in the case of the furniture, just chewing on it is not a good idea on his part. So, you can provide him with a bone, either rawhide or real, as a diversion. These come in various sizes to fit your dog. Bruno will want a larger one, while a smaller dog would necessarily need a smaller bone. Either way, he can exercise and clean his teeth without fear of choking.

Enzymatic Rawhide Chips

You can try some of the rawhide chips that are infused with enzymes designed to kill your dog’s bad breath as well as remove tartar and plaque. However, the taste leaves something to be desired and Bruno may not like them, thus leaving them untouched. If he does not use them, they won’t work.

Regular Visits to the Veterinarian

Of course, the veterinarian is the best person to keep Bruno’s teeth in perfect health. As much as he will protest, regular visits insure good oral and physical health. Your dog’s veterinarian will provide him the proper care that will keep him healthy and happy for years to come.

Arlene Mason is a freelance writer living outside of Dallas, Texas with her husband and two dogs. She has written and published the following e-books: “Understanding Low-Carb Dieting”, “On the Edge” and “Stepping Stones” which are all available at http://www.double-dragon-ebooks.com

And, with the advent of the internet, and its ability to link nations together, and not to mention its popularity, with millions of registered users online daily. Combining these two resources can greatly increase the chance that a pet will be recovered, if these resources are used correctly.

Combining the internet and the pet identification tag provides many benefits to the pet owner when it comes to ensuring the safety of the family pet. The best use of these resources is provided by a company named RecoveryPets. Com whose website is located at http://www.recoverypets.com, and this is accomplished by using a unique tracking number for each registered pet and that number is inscribed on the pet identification tag. This system allows the pets description and photograph to be placed on the companies website along with the owners contact information.

Each year millions of family pets are lost, and end up at shelters that have no idea who these pets belong to, or how to contact the owners to return the pets. But, something as simple as a pet tag that you only have to register for once, because the contact information can be updated free for the life of the pet, can almost erase this problem and reunite many pets with their families. Additionally, because this is a web based service, anyone with a computer around the world can access the pets information, and return the lost pet to its owners.

Thaddeus Collins is the owner of RecoveryPets.Com and they specialize in the global recovery of lost pets using a unique tracking number. For more information visit http://www.recoverypets.com

The standard hamster cage is roughly around a square foot or so. But providing a much larger hamster cage would be greatly appreciated by your hammy. Hamsters are used to travelling miles in a single night. A hamster cage may not be able to give him this much space but it would be just okay for your pet. A thick layer of wood pulp shavings should not be absent in his cage flooring, along with other things like toys, tubes and papers. It is also good to create a specific place for him where he may sleep the day away.

Hamsters are nocturnal animals and natural diggers. On their natural habitats, hamsters normally stay in elaborately constructed barrows, some of which may be as long as 30 feet. You may be startled to discover traces of such tunnels in the bedding of the hamster cage. They are apt as well to maneuvering through tunnels, small holes and everything that may become as escape routes so keep watch for such for hamsters are excellent escape artists.

Majority of hamster cages has solid plastic bases and is equipped with metal bars at the upper layer. These cages may have ladders or wire ramps to provide access to upper level of the cage. Most animal experts advise the use of aquariums as hamster cages though. These provide ample visibility for the owner and can be cleaned off easily. But if you are to use an aquarium, make sure that the humidity inside it is tolerable by your hammy. They can’t withstand high humidity so you may have to replace the lid with a wire mesh. The most ideal size of the wire mesh is 1 by 1-centimeter. Be sure to clip the wire lid securely and check for possible escape holes. They can easily squeeze through such gaps.

Never place your hamster in wooden cages and cardboard boxes, unless you would want them to escape. They can simply chew their way out from such structures. High-end plastic materials may look pleasing along with featured chambers and tunnels but they are rather difficult to clean. If possible, buy the hamster cage that has lift-off lid or a large door opening. This can make cleaning faster and more comfortable.

The floor of the hamster cage must be covered with sawdust or wood shavings, at least two inches of the material. This is primarily used for flooring but may also end at your pet’s mouth as he builds tunnels and rearranges his food stash. When choosing wood bedding, prefer the absorbent ones.

Most experts don’t recommend the use of cedars as cage bedding. Cedar oils are too sharp for the respiratory system of the creature. Pine is advisable so long as the palest variety of the wood is used, to avoid strong pine oils. Aspen may be more preferable but for the time being, the hamster community is reconsidering aspen as it may have adverse effects on the creature’s health.

The difficulty of maintaining the hamster cages clean is greatly dependent on the type of the cage. However, the basic thing to think of in cleaning a hamster cage is to remove first the animal. Place him in an enclosed space, say a hamster ball. Then continue on to replacing and not removing some of the old materials. A thorough cleaning once in a week may suffice.

Robert Thatcher is a freelance publisher based in Cupertino, California. He publishes articles and reports in various ezines and provides hamster cage resources on http://www.about-hamster-cages.info

Pet snakes generally fall into three categories, based on the environment from which they came. The cages that you house your pet in will depend on that environment. The most common of these types is the terrestrial, those that prefer solid ground and live and hunt in that environment. The other common types are arboreal snakes (tree snakes) and semi aquatic snakes (water snakes).

Many people house their snakes in converted aquariums but these are generally not the best place to house a snake. The glass does not insulate well and consequently loses heat easily and quickly. Smaller reptiles adapt quite well to this sort of environment and the heating costs are not really an issue as the tanks are smaller.

Acrylic cages are common and are quite a good alternative. They are easily washed and lightweight. The better ones can be expensive, depending on their size and options. It is generally a lot more expensive to make moulds for large shapes.

Wooden snake and reptile cages are widely used. This is for a number of reasons:

Easy to construct at home as people already have many of the tools needed

Timber has good insulation properties; this reduces heat loss and also saves heating costs

Materials are readily available

Can be altered to suit the owner’s preferences

You will need to provide at least 3/4 square foot of living area per foot of snake housed within. This means that for cages measuring 2ft deep (wide) the length of the cage is roughly 2/3 the length of the snake to be housed in it i.e. 4ft snake has a 3ft x2ft cage, a 6ft snake requires a min 4ft x 2ft cage etc.

Snake cages also need to be secure. Ideally your snake cage should be lockable to prevent people removing your animal without your presence and risking the chance of being bitten or in the case of a large reptile, potentially injuring or preventing fatalities in the case of young children.

This is even more true of venomous snakes. If you are new to snake keeping or have little experience then you should not consider a venomous snake. Only keepers with a lot of experience keep venomous snakes and even then not many.

Your snake cage will also need to be ventilated. The ventilation should allow a free flow of air through the snake enclosure, without being too much. Snakes have a low metabolic rate and hence do not require a massive air flow.

The vents for your snake enclosure will need to be made from plastic, rather than metal to prevent abrasions.

You will also need to clean your snake’s cage thoroughly at least once a month, including disinfecting the floors, to keep your snake healthy and in good condition.

Snakes regulate their temperature in the wild based on a variety of factors and they need to be able to do so in the artificial environment you provide. Your cage will need a temperature gradient and adequate provision for the snake to regulate its temperature.

You may also have to regulate the humidity of your cage, depending on the type of snake you keep. Snakes from tropical environments require high levels of humidity to remain healthy.

Heating can be provided in a number of ways, for example heat lamps (incandescent bulbs) and heat mats. You need to monitor and regulate the temperature of you snake cage in a number of locations in order to keep you r snake comfortable. If you use incandescent globes, make sure they are not able to be accidentally touched by the snake. As lizards do not have the ability to stretch out to heat lamps as easily, this is generally not an issue.

Snakes requiring humidity will require that you measure the humidity and maintain it be between 40 and 70 percent, in order to provide the optimal environment for your snake.

Humidity gauges and thermometers should be placed at multiple locations within the snake housing to monitor the temperatures and humidity throughout.

For arboreal species, you need to provide plenty of branches of different types and sizes in the snake cage. Other decorations and cage accessories such as rock formations, hollow logs, or other hiding areas should be placed at different temperature locations within the enclosure.

The snake cage will also require a substrate (base material). There are a wide range of these such as Aspen shavings, commercially available substrates designed for snakes newspaper and recycled paper material such as kitty litter.

You will also need a sturdy ceramic or plastic water bowl in your snake cages. They need to have a flat base and be reasonable wide as snakes and reptiles will move around freely and knock poor water containers over. The water containers should be at both the warmer and cooler ends of the cage. Some species of snake like to have a larger water container that enable them to immerse themselves.

You may also need to provide a UV light, such as Zoo Med’s Reptisun 5UVB, to assist you snake with the production of vitamins. Not all snakes require this so you need to check on your particular snake’s requirements. Many species of lizards and skinks do require these UV lights to produce vitamin D so it is best to make sure of your animals requirements when setting up an enclosure.

The Maltese is a member of the toy class, usually weighing between three and 10 pounds. Its most prominent characteristic is its long, flowing white hair with no undercoat. Because the Maltese don’t have fur like other breeds, it will lose hair the way humans do instead of shedding like most dogs. Perhaps the most interesting and unique characteristic of the breed is its color-changing nose. The nose can change from coal black to a light brownish color or even pink depending on the amount of sunlight the animal is exposed to. The nose of a female Maltese may change color when she goes onto heat.

Because Maltese don’t shed if properly and regularly groomed, they make good pets for people who suffer with allergies.

The breed’s temperament lends itself to companionship. The Maltese is happiest when in the company of family and friends being lavished with affection. Like most small breeds, they are energetic and given to sudden bouts of activity, but their small size makes them a good option for apartment dwellers. Maltese are very smart. Their high intellect makes them easy to train and quick at picking up new tricks.

Maltese are generally good natured and playful, but like any pack-oriented animal, they might not do well with small children or strangers. They are very territorial and likely to be protective of the family unit.

Like anything else with hair, a Maltese must be regularly groomed to prevent matting. Some caretakers find a way around the chore by keeping their dogs in what is known as a “puppy cut” or a “teddy bear cut,” where the hair is kept short, about a half an inch, all over the body. This style is certainly less fuss and may be more comfortable for the dog, but it’s not acceptable for a show dog.

Maltese are relatively healthy dogs, usually unburdened with the afflictions of other pure breeds. However, luxating patella, white dog shaker syndrome and progressive retinal atrophy are common in Maltese that do develop problems. Luxating patella is a condition in which the kneecap slips out of place. White dog shaker syndrome is a sudden onset of tremors, sometimes full seizures, that troubles only white dogs. Progressive retinal atrophy is just what it sounds like. It will eventually result in blindness for which there is no cure.

In keeping with the designer breed trend, Maltese are often bred with other breeds, such as poodles, to emphasize their sweet nature and intelligence.

Cory Willins is an author for many websites, including Pets 247, a comprehensive pet resource with information about cats, dogs, fish, birds and more.

Signs and symptoms of dog allergies may vary but are often marked by persistent itching and discoloration of the skin (most common with skin allergies), coughing, sneezing, wheezing, and mucus discharge (most common with inhalant allergies), and nausea, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea (common with food allergies.)

Over-the-counter preparations and treatments for common dog allergies exist and may be purchased at any good pet supply store, but care should be taken when choosing such treatments. Consultation with a vet is the best first course of action for several reasons. First of all, what you think is an allergic reaction may actually be signs of a more serious ailment and a vet should be the one to determine whether that is the case. Secondly, if the allergy is severe enough, over-the-counter treatments may not be sufficient to treat the symptoms. There is also the chance that the dog does not have an allergy at all. The last thing you want to do is medicate your pet unnecessarily.

If you do think your dog has some type of allergy, consult your vet. He or she will be able to perform tests to determine whether an allergic condition exists, how severe it is, and what the appropriate treatment should be. If the dog has an allergy to certain foods, it will be imperative to restrict the animal’s diet to eliminate those items that cause a reaction. The vet’s testing methods can help to determine whether this type of allergy exists as well. If the dog has flea allergy dermatitis (an allergic reaction to the saliva of fleas, rather than to the insects themselves), an strict flea prevention regimen will be recommended.

The vet may also recommend cortisone or steroids. Many vets are conventionally trained and do not offer holistic alternatives, which can be just as good as the toxic drugs which vets routinely prescribe. So before you accept your vet’s recommendations for drugs, do investigate the alternatives:

1. Natural Flea Treatments

2. Natural Worm Treatments

3. Detoxification of Your Dog’s System if your dog has taken toxic drugs or been exposed to chemicals (household cleaners, insecticides, etc.) in the past.

4. Past steroid use may have compromised Your Dog’s Immune System (characterized by such chronic illness as Lyme’s Disease and many others). Your dog’s immune system can also be boosted by natural means.

5. Treat your dog’s skin allergies naturally from the inside and out.

You should always discuss your intentions with your vet, when proceeding with any new regime, whether natural or otherwise, but knowledge is power. And being armed with the knowledge of the harm that conventional medicines can cause, and the effectiveness of holistic, natural, alternative methods, will stand you in good stead. Many vets are open to such alternatives when asked directly about them by a pet owner who has done research and is looking for a more natural way of dealing with illness, and this case specifically, allergies, in their dog.

Just like humans, dogs that suffer from various allergies can live comfortably with them if they are detected and treated properly. It is important to bear in mind that this is not a time to “play doctor” by attempting to diagnose and treat a possible allergic condition yourself. Only your veterinarian is qualified to determine whether your dog is suffering from allergies. What course of action to take, however, may well be a matter for discussion between you and your vet.

(c) 2006, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural dog health, including:

Natural Flea and Worm Treatments
Immune Support for Your Dog

Skin Allergies

What Causes Hip Dysplasia?
While there is no “conclusive proof” of the cause of hip dysplasia, there are 2 general schools of thought about its cause – 1) genetic or 2) environmental

These two differing viewpoints often place the dog breeders at odds with the dog owners, causing each to blame the other for the problem.
Genetic: The puppy is born with the problem
Environmental: The puppy is too heavy resulting in excessive growth and/or over or under exercising a puppy during its growth phase resulting in developmental problems.

The most common theory is that hip dysplasia is indeed genetic. Most breeders have their breeding dogs’ hips rated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) or Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (Penn-HIP), or various other international orthopedic groups.

We could discuss the merits of both theories, but it doesn’t change the facts. If your dog has hip dysplasia, you need to deal with it. You may be deciding what to do next, or you may have already decided, and want to know what to expect.

When Does a Dog Get Hip Dysplasia?
If you subscribe to the theory that it is genetic, they are born with it. Dogs that have severe hip dysplasia often begin to have problems as puppies. Sometimes, the hip dysplasia does not cause pain for the dog, so they do not show signs of it until they develop arthritis in their hip joints. Some dogs that are not as severe can live out their entire lives with few, if any symptoms.

What are the Symptoms of Hip Dysplasia?
There are a number of symptoms of hip dysplasia. Some dog owners only say that their dog didn’t walk right. Others will say they saw no symptoms at all, or just that their dog began to limp. Following is a list of common symptoms, of which your dog may have a couple and not have hip dysplasia.

Bunny Hopping: The dog tends to use both hind legs together, rather than one at a time. This occurs when the dog is running, or going up stairs.

Side Sit: Also called lazy sit, slouch or frog sit. When the dog sits, its legs are not positioned bent and close to the body. They can be loose and off to one side, or one or both legs may be straight out in front.

Sway Walk: Also called a loose walk. When the dog is walking, the back end sways back and forth because the hips are loose.

Unusual Laying Position: Legs are straight out and off to the side when the dog is laying on its stomach or legs are straight out behind the dog. (All dogs lay with their legs behind them on occasion, many dogs with hip dysplasia lay like this all the time.)

Limping: The dog may favor one hind leg or the other, and may alternate legs that it is favoring.

Quiet Puppy: Puppies who are already in pain from hip dysplasia tend to be very good puppies. They do not rough house the way that normal puppies do. They also tend to sleep for a long time after playing or going for a walk. Some owners describe their puppy with hip dysplasia as the best puppy they’ve ever had.

Dog Doesn’t Jump: Not only do they not jump on you, they seem to pull themselves up by their front end onto furniture as opposed to jumping up.

Underdeveloped Hind Quarters and Overdeveloped Chest: This is caused by the failure to use the hind legs normally and jump. The dog also may actually be shifting weight forward.

Diagnosing Hip Dysplasia
The only way to diagnose hip dysplasia is with x-rays. However, I must note here that you should treat the dog and not the x-rays. Some dogs with seemingly mild hip dysplasia are in a lot of pain, while other dogs with apparent severe hip dysplasia do not display symptoms.

What Can Be Done for My Dog?
If you have had x-rays taken of your dog’s hips at your regular vet, you may have been referred to an orthopedic surgeon. The surgeon is going to recommend various surgical options for your dog. I am going to give you a very brief overview of these surgeries. You will need to discuss your dog’s options with the surgeon. They will provide the details of each surgical option. Some people are able to treat their dog with nutritional supplements and avoid surgery. Ultimately, it will be your decision to determine the best treatment for your dog.

Surgical Options:
Juvenile Pubic Symphysiodesis (JPS) – This surgery is performed on puppies under 20 weeks of age, generally when the puppy is neutered or spayed. It shows great promise as a preventive measure, by altering the pelvic growth. This surgery has a short recovery period, but is generally done before a puppy can be diagnosed. However, once you’ve lived with hip dysplasia, it may prove to be worthwhile for a puppy considered at risk for developing hip dysplasia.

Dorsal Acetabular Rim (DAR) – This surgery consists of bone grafts being taken from other areas of the pelvis to build up the rim on the hip socket (cup). The idea is for the femoral head to have a deeper socket to fit into. It’s relatively new, so there is some question as to how a dog will do into old age – there aren’t many older dogs that have had it done.

Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO) – This surgery involves cutting the bone around the hip socket and repositioning the socket for a better fit with the femoral head. The bones are plated back together so they heal in the correct alignment. This surgery is performed on young dogs before they have finished growing.

Total Hip Replacement (THR) – This surgery consists of replacing the hip joint similar to a human hip replacement. A new cup is usually attached to the hip bone, and the femoral head is cut off the leg bone and an implant is inserted into the leg bone. This surgery is done on more mature dogs that have finished growing. Due to the size of the implants, this surgery is done on larger dogs. Previously, all artificial hip components were cemented in place. More recently, cementless hip replacements are being performed.

Femoral Head & Neck Ostectomy (FHO) – This surgery consists of removing the femoral head of the leg bone to eliminate the pain of hip dysplasia. The dog’s body will then develop scar tissue to create an artificial hip joint. Long considered only appropriate for smaller dogs or as a salvage operation for a failed THR, it has become increasingly popular for larger dogs.

Non-Surgical or Conservative Management Option
Many people choose to have surgery performed on their dog only as a last resort. Some are able to manage their dog’s hip dysplasia with supplements, acupuncture, chiropractic care, exercise and weight management. Sometimes, the puppy will show signs of pain from hip dysplasia, and once it is done growing and the muscles are fully developed, they seem to “go into remission”, developing signs of hip problems again as the dog ages. Surgical options are still available to you if the conservative path is unsuccessful.

For additional information on hip dysplasia, please visit
mypoordog.com

Mypoordog.com – Dog owners helping dog owners by sharing their stories of treatment and recovery in high quality e-books.

The designer dog club is spear headed by increasing numbers of celebrities and famous people are bringing their dogs into the limelight. And the picture is becoming increasingly bizarre.

You have most likely heard about the Labradoodle, Puggle or the Maltipoo. The variations that breeders are coming up with are increasingly strange. Ever wondered what a Shih Tzu and a Pomeranian would look like crossed? Your little Shih Pom would undoubtedly be tiny, cute and a loving companion – but what about all the various health risks that will become exaggerated with a cross such as this?

The experimentation doesn’t seem to have any limits either.

What about a Puggle, Cock a Poo or Peke a Poo? Sound cute and adorable right? Shorkies, Pugaliers, Puggles, Schnoodles and English Boodles. Starting to sound like a bizarre nursery rhyme?

It’s unfortunately much more than a cute collection of ideas about dog breeding. It’s becoming an increasing problem as pseudo registries and organizations start taking the place of the widely recognized and respected more established club.

Unfortunately these fashionable dogs are all too often the result of exploitative breeding for profit.

People who buy these designer dogs are often told it’s unique. Many of these dogs have a genetic make-up that cannot be reproduced again. You can be guaranteed that your dog is unique, so unique that he probably won’t even resemble his parents or litter mates.

And the wide range of health problems he might experience later in life will also be unique. Your Veterinarian won’t have any prior list to consult when trying to diagnose your dog. Canine Medicine is tricky enough without adding the mix-breed wild card. If you buy a dog from an established breeding line you can be assured that your vet will have a long list of possible diseases that are common in the breed.

If you own a designer dog you cannot be certain of any of the kinds of qualities that he will grow up with. This can be likened to Russian roulette with dogs. One bad gene somewhere along the line your dog might have picked up some aggression or equally feared qualities.

If you have your heart set on a mixed breed dog then consider getting one at your local humane shelter; in reality you would be getting the same exact thing for a low few. Many of the fashionable mixes are now in pounds and shelters.

Unfortunately with mixed breed dogs you can never tell what kinds of health or behavioral problems might surface later in life. You can make an educated guess as to what kinds of disorders your dog is genetically predisposed to. By looking at the most common ailments of each of the parents you might be able to work out what kinds of illnesses your dog is likely to get.

Designer dogs are becoming more and more popular. One only needs to look at the amount of media attention these dogs are getting lately.

Dogs have been subject to various fashions throughout the ages. It is almost certain that many of the changes are going to make a difference to dogs as we know them today.

Who knows maybe one day nobody will even remember where the Puggle came from!

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide

According to a recent study by the American Horse Council, 1.9 million
Americans own horses — just over 4 million people are recreational riders
and 3.6 million show horses. The horse industry has a $112.1 billion impact
on the US gross domestic product: greater than the movie industry and the
tobacco manufacturing industry.

Even with people mainly in cities, horses have really disappeared from daily
life for most North Americans. And yet their appeal hasn’t faded.

I wonder why.

As a youngster, I was enthralled with horses. I read books about horses,
took riding lessons and all of my drawings were of horses. It’s a girl thing
mostly. I didn’t come from an equestrian background.

It does have benefits. You learn to control a large muscle-y animal which
may prepare you for being married to another version of one. A horse weighs
about half a ton. You can’t be shy around a horse. You learn to be confident
and firm.

The general care of a horse which includes brushing, mucking out stalls and
feeding gives you a feeling of responsibility. It’s a healthier
environment – a riding stable can delay the problems of dating and drugs. It
’s a great physical activity.

In an age where teenagers find that television’s problems are dealt with in
30 minutes, riding takes a longer, more dedicated approach. I think girls
who ride make better drivers because you’re trained to look forward and plan
what’s ahead. No one wants to get hit by an overhead branch on a trail. It’
is a monetary investment but I think it’s on par with boys playing hockey
and the equipment that entails. Overall, I would say it is money well spent.

About the Author

Gwen Jones
http://www.equestrianboutique.com
Gwen Jones is an adult living in Toronto, Canada and rides when she can.
Equestrian Boutique

Aquarium tanks can be used for keeping snakes under 6 feet requiring a swimming pool or humidity. A screen top for ventilation for arid or desert snakes and a partially covered screen top raise the humidity for rainforest snakes. Viewing is unrestricted and the tank can be easily cleaned. It will not get scratched and temperatures are easy to maintain. They are cumbersome and can be difficult to move, especially big or fully-loaded ones. They need to be on a solid table or stand. If you do need to move them, put solid castors on the stand.

Plastic/Rubbermaid tubs are useful as breeding racks, during the quarantine period before to introducing a new animal to an established collection, as an emergency/isolation enclosure, feeding tub and for juvenile snakes. They are no good for arboreal species, as they cannot climb.

Melamine cages are easily cleaned and melamine is perfect for cage bases or indeed a whole cage. It resists moisture, and you can get melamine specially made for bathroom cabinets. Custom-made enclosures are sometimes made of melamine with different laminates, and you can build furniture-quality enclosures yourself. These can be made to fit anything from a Corn snake to a Burmese. With a glass front, these enclosures hold humidity very well.

Plywood cages are much cheaper than melamine and easier to work with. Plywood comes in various grades. The better grades give a much nicer finish to your cage and are worth the extra money.

Screen cages/Reptariums are good for transporting smaller animals but not much good for keeping snakes. They can be unstable and larger snakes will knock them over.

MDF or craftwood is similar to Melamine but much cheaper. It can be used in combination cages ie Melamine base with MDF sides, back etc. MDF has very good thermal properties (retails heat well) and if used in conjunction with an internal coating material such as Contact, will hold humidity well. Excellent to work with and has a smooth finish for painting. Always wear a mask when cutting or routing MDF as it is dusty and the dust can cause damage to nasal passages.

Pine or Cedar: Neither of these timbers should be used to construct a cage. Both timbers emit aromatic hydrocarbons. These can cause health problems for your snakes. They can be used for framing cages.

Do not use pine or cedar as a substrate. Wood shavings have a very high surface area, releasing hydrocarbons more readily and rapidly. They can be toxic, particularly for animals that like to bury themselves in their substrate material.

Snake owners who construct their own cages, do so from plywoods, melamine and MDF types of materials. These materials all have good insulating properties. Glass loses heat rapidly and is usually only on the front of the cage. Glass cages are also more difficult to make yourself, requiring special tools and some specialist knowledge.

The front of the cage can be sliding glass, Plexiglas or a constructed wood/glass door. Using a decorative timber at the front gives the cage a professional appearance. Cages constructed from the more expensive laminated melamine materials can look furniture grade but you do need know what you are doing to achieve this level of appearance.

Let painted cages dry out for a minimum of 2-3 days, 5-7 days would be even better, to release the paint solvents.

Building you own snake cage is a fun and rewarding experience.

Mark Chapple is the Author of “How to Build Reptile Enclosures”
Find out how you can build your own reptile cages. Full color pictures with detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.
http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com