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What kind of materials should you use when constructing a snake cage? Snakes come in many different sizes - but usually only one shape. Even so, there are many different housing systems and styles for snakes. These depend on the adult size of the snake, how much room you have, the environment it normally inhabits and how much money you are willing to spend.

Aquarium tanks can be used for keeping snakes under 6 feet requiring a swimming pool or humidity. A screen top for ventilation for arid or desert snakes and a partially covered screen top raise the humidity for rainforest snakes. Viewing is unrestricted and the tank can be easily cleaned. It will not get scratched and temperatures are easy to maintain. They are cumbersome and can be difficult to move, especially big or fully-loaded ones. They need to be on a solid table or stand. If you do need to move them, put solid castors on the stand.

Plastic/Rubbermaid tubs are useful as breeding racks, during the quarantine period before to introducing a new animal to an established collection, as an emergency/isolation enclosure, feeding tub and for juvenile snakes. They are no good for arboreal species, as they cannot climb.

Melamine cages are easily cleaned and melamine is perfect for cage bases or indeed a whole cage. It resists moisture, and you can get melamine specially made for bathroom cabinets. Custom-made enclosures are sometimes made of melamine with different laminates, and you can build furniture-quality enclosures yourself. These can be made to fit anything from a Corn snake to a Burmese. With a glass front, these enclosures hold humidity very well.

Plywood cages are much cheaper than melamine and easier to work with. Plywood comes in various grades. The better grades give a much nicer finish to your cage and are worth the extra money.

Screen cages/Reptariums are good for transporting smaller animals but not much good for keeping snakes. They can be unstable and larger snakes will knock them over.

MDF or craftwood is similar to Melamine but much cheaper. It can be used in combination cages ie Melamine base with MDF sides, back etc. MDF has very good thermal properties (retails heat well) and if used in conjunction with an internal coating material such as Contact, will hold humidity well. Excellent to work with and has a smooth finish for painting. Always wear a mask when cutting or routing MDF as it is dusty and the dust can cause damage to nasal passages.

Pine or Cedar: Neither of these timbers should be used to construct a cage. Both timbers emit aromatic hydrocarbons. These can cause health problems for your snakes. They can be used for framing cages.

Do not use pine or cedar as a substrate. Wood shavings have a very high surface area, releasing hydrocarbons more readily and rapidly. They can be toxic, particularly for animals that like to bury themselves in their substrate material.

Snake owners who construct their own cages, do so from plywoods, melamine and MDF types of materials. These materials all have good insulating properties. Glass loses heat rapidly and is usually only on the front of the cage. Glass cages are also more difficult to make yourself, requiring special tools and some specialist knowledge.

The front of the cage can be sliding glass, Plexiglas or a constructed wood/glass door. Using a decorative timber at the front gives the cage a professional appearance. Cages constructed from the more expensive laminated melamine materials can look furniture grade but you do need know what you are doing to achieve this level of appearance.

Let painted cages dry out for a minimum of 2-3 days, 5-7 days would be even better, to release the paint solvents.

Building you own snake cage is a fun and rewarding experience.

Mark Chapple is the Author of “How to Build Reptile Enclosures”
Find out how you can build your own reptile cages. Full color pictures with detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.
http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com

Nutritional supplements to help aging, arthritic joints are probably the most commonly used forms of natural therapies by people as well as pets. Each manufacturer selects from a variety of ingredients to include in a proprietary formula. In general, most of the various ingredients designed to heal damaged cartilage and reduce pain and inflammation are pretty similar (although the quality of nutritional supplements varies, which is why I encourage pet owners to seek veterinary advice when deciding what supplement might be best for their pets.) In general, the most commonly prescribed joint supplements contain glucosamine, chondroitin, and/or hyaluronic acid. These ingredients are very safe. There has been one report of a dog developing signs of diabetes when given the incorrect dose of a glucosamine supplement; the signs resolved when the correct dose was given. Testing on diabetic dogs with glucosamine did not reveal any harm or increase in blood sugar. In general, owners should not notice side effects in pets when using supplements containing glucosamine, chondroitin, and/or hyaluronic acid according to label instructions.

The following miscellaneous supplements are often used in pets and are generally considered very safe.

Choline-This nutrient is very helpful in pets with cognitive disorder and seizures. It is very safe for use in pets; very rarely it has caused hyperactivity/hyperexcitability that goes away after the supplement is discontinued or the dosage reduced.

Glutamine-An amino acid that is helpful for pets with any gastrointestinal disorder. It is very safe for use in pets, although there is a theoretical concern in seizing patients due to increased glutamate levels (I’ve never seen this in practice.)

Probiotics-These healthy GI bacteria and yeasts are useful in any sick pet and any pet taking medications, including nonsteroidals, antibiotics, and corticosteroids. Probiotics are very safe for use in pets and no side effects have been reported.

After using integrative therapies in my practice for the last 7 years, I am convinced that in most cases nutritional supplements are less expensive, less toxic, and more effective than conventional medications. However, natural does not always mean safe, and you should never start your pet on supplements without the knowledge of how the supplements work and if they interact with conventional medications. Using supplements under veterinary supervision is the best approach to properly treating any disease in your dog or cat. Each doctor has his own favorite brands that have worked well in clinical cases. If you’d like my list of favorite supplements, please email me at shawnvet@sbcglobal.net and I’ll send it to you. Also check out www.pettogethers.net/healthypet to learn about my favorite maintenance supplement to keep your dog or cat healthy!

Shawn Messonnier, DVM

Author, 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

The keyword pet meds is abbreviation of pet medications. The pet medications or meds include the pet drug or pet medicine especially compounded for the pets. These are those med pet supplies that are essential to keep good pet health.

Pet keeping is very much in vogue all over the world. The pets are domesticated for companionship or amusement, so, it becomes the duty of the masters to take proper care of their pets and keep them in good health.

Pets are pets after all, they easily fall prey to numerous pet diseases and ailments. The major cause of pet illness is careless pet grooming and lousy pet cleanliness or hygiene.

The pet meds play cardinal role in pet grooming and keeping good pet health. A master needs to have a professional savvy about pet medication or pet medicine or pet drug. There is a great plethora of pet medicines available on the counter. One needs to have ample of knowledge to pick the right and effective ones.

These pet medications are sometimes quite expensive and they force people to search for discount pet meds or discount pet drugs, even cheap pet medications some times. One can have access to the online pet medication.

The pets are the important members of society. They should always be kept in good health. Their disease should be nip in their buds, as these may be transmitted to humans also.

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Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviors is one thing that most dog owners eventually face. Here we will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems.

Problem #1 - Jumping up on people

One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people. Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviors that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning owners. After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 10 pound puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your friends. Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small puppy with kisses and treats.

This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little puppy may soon become a full grown dog who could weigh well in excess of 100 pounds. Suddenly that cute jumping behavior is no longer quite so cute.

In addition to being annoying, jumping up on people can be dangerous as well. A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically, can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult. In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make you, as the dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.

The time to teach a dog that jumping up on people is unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle. Retraining a dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can be difficult for the owner, and confusing for the dog.

When the puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your family, gently but firmly place the puppy’s feet back on the floor. After the puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure to reward and praise him.

It is important for every member of the family, as well as frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow it religiously. If one member of the family reprimands the dog for jumping and another praises him, the dog will be understandably confused. As with other dog training issues, consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is always inappropriate.

When praising and rewarding the dog for staying down, it is important for the trainer to get down on the dog’s level. Giving affection and praise at eye level with the puppy is a great way to reinforce the lesson.

The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious - they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.

One way to redirect the dog’s happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This “shaking hands” posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.

Problem #2 - Pulling and tugging at the leash

Pulling on the leash is another problem trait that many puppies pick up. Unfortunately, this behavior is also one that is sometimes encouraged by well meaning owners. Playing games like tug of war with the leash, or even with a rope (that can look like the leash to the dog) can unwittingly encourage a problem behavior.

The use of a quality body harness can be a big help when training a puppy not to pull, or retraining a dog that has picked up the habit of pulling on the leash. Try training the puppy to accept the body harness the same way it accepts the regular buckle collar.

When walking with your dog, try using a lure or toy to encourage the dog to remain at your side. A training collar, when properly used, can also be a good training tool for a problem dog. When using a training collar or choke chain, however, it is very important to fit it correctly, and to use a size that is neither too big nor too small for your dog.

When walking with your puppy, it is important to keep the leash loose at all times. If the puppy begins to pull ahead, the handler should quickly change directions so that the puppy fast finds itself falling behind. It is important to reverse directions before the puppy has reached the end of the leash.

The leash should stay loose except for the split second it takes the handler to reverse direction. It is important to use a quick tug, followed by an immediate slackening of the leash.

When training a puppy, it is important to never let the puppy pull you around. Training the puppy to walk properly while he or she is still small enough to handle is absolutely vital, especially when dealing with a large breed of dog. If your 150 pound Great Dane hasn’t learned to walk properly while he or she is still a 20 pound puppy, chances are it never will.

It is important not to yank or pull on the puppy’s neck when correcting him. A gentle, steady pressure will work much better than a hard yank. The best strategy is to use the least amount of pressure possible to achieve the desired result.

Problem #3 - Escaping and roaming the neighborhood

A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.

Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner’s idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let’s talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.

Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.

In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.

Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.

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If you have no desire to train a horse or have a green horse (young inexperienced horse), then you ought to look at buying a horse that is around 5 years and older. That way the horse has had a number of years where he has been ridden and taught. If you are looking to learn a particular sport and compete, then it could be to your advantage to buy a school master.

This is an older horse that has successfully learned and usually competed in a sport and is looking for a little less action. The owner may not think the horse is ready for retirement and would be an excellent teacher for a beginner rider starting out. Depending on the age and health of the horse, you could learn and begin to compete on the same horse. Or you could learn on the older horse and buy a younger horse once you start competing. Of course that leaves you with another question of what to do with the older horse?

How much can you afford to spend on the horse? This question helps you decide whether you buy a young horse, an older horse, or even a foal. If you are seriously looking to compete you may be more concerned about bloodlines. Bloodlines relate to a horse’s ancestry. Typically horses with good bloodlines are pricier, so buying a foal could cut the cost however you have to then wait a number of years until you could compete with your purchase.

It should be noted that a foal with excellent bloodlines and good conformation (body proportion) can cost far more than a horse with an unknown or unproven bloodline.
Usually a horse that has good bloodlines or has proven himself in a sport is going to cost you the most. Not only do you consider the cost in buying the horse, but in also purchasing all the equipment you’ll need for riding and caring for your horse.

Do you already have all the tack necessary, riding gear and grooming equipment? This can add up to a tidy sum and you may need to lower your budget so that you can buy all the equipment you need.

Your horse guide. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Feeding Your Horse.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Educational DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month’s e-book on “How To Spot A fraudulent Email”. Grab your free copy today.

Imagine being a new baby in new surroundings, separated from your mother and siblings. Or being a foster child, moving from family to family and having to learn about new places and new people. Now you can picture how your new puppy or dog from a shelter feels when introduced into your household. Besides the usual preparations for bringing home a new dog such as providing food, water and a safe environment, you will want to create a bond with your new pet.

Bonding with a new dog will not happen overnight, although some people and dogs seem to hit if off as soon as their eyes meet. You will need to be prepared to spend some time and effort with your new family member, but the rewards from creating a strong bond will last a lifetime.

Here are some simple tools for establishing a life long bond with your dog:

1) Before you go to get your dog, pick out a soft, big, warm shirt you wouldn’t mind giving up. Sleep in that shirt for a week or so, and don’t wash it. When you get your new dog, put the shirt in the dog’s new bed, or in his crate. That way he will learn your smell, and draw comfort from it.

2) Let your dog stay in your bedroom at night, although not necessarily on your bed! He will feel safe in his dog crate or dog bed in your room.

3) Spend some time with your dog , one on one. Now is the perfect time to start some positive feedback while training your dog new behaviors. If you have more than one pet, be sure to spend time with your new pet alone, whether on a romp in a meadow, or for a walk along the beach, just you two.

4) Introduce your dog to grooming with a soft brush or brushing glove. Your new pet will enjoy the close contact and also learn what grooming feels like. You can talk to your dog while you groom him, even sing to him, if you want. Maybe he will sing with you.

5) Take your new pet to obedience classes, whether it is a puppy play group, or canine good citizen training. Your dog will enjoy the socialization with other dogs, and the chance to learn something new. An added benefit to taking your dog to class is he will learn you are both his friend, and his leader.

Bonding with your new dog may take time and work, especially with an older dog who has been in a shelter or mistreated previously. However, once you create a sense of trust and closeness with your dog, the bond will only grow stronger with time.

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This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Mary Casey is a writer, and avid fan of dogs everywhere.